Split-Shotting Old-School Finesse

When most anglers hear the name Castaic Lake, grandiose visions arise of giant swimbaits sashaying through the water, pursued by record-class bucketmouths. Though that thought is legitimate, what many outside the southern Cal bass scene fail to realize is that Castaic was the birthplace of one of the most important finesse techniques ever—the split-shot rig.

The term birthplace may be a stretch, since lead shot pinched on the line had been used to catch bass for years prior to the advent of what we now call finesse techniques. Still, when one examines the technique—thin line, light rod, small hooks, and miniature plastics—there’s no doubt it was revolutionary in its development.

The late Richard Trask is credited with developing the rig to trick Castaic’s bass, highly pressured even back then. Split-shottin’ had its heyday in the late 1970s and early ’80s, eventually spreading across the nation in the 1990s. But with the advent of the drop-shot rig, the technique drifted into obscurity.

Oldies but Goodies

The fishing world counts a number of recent rebirths of significance. Resurrection of the square-bill crankbait is one example, as new lures seek to emulate the ancient Big O. Also, the Texas-rigged worm has returned, as evidenced by its success at the 2008 Bassmaster Elite Series tournament on Falcon Lake in Texas.

What these two techniques have in common is that they both lost popularity, possibly due to a combination of fish conditioning and the development of newer, more effective techniques. When reintroduced by a few savvy anglers, they’ve proven as valuable as in the past. The split-shot rig, with its storied history, is in this same category.

The Basic Rig

The beauty of the split-shot rig lies in its simplicity. A straight-shank worm hook tied to 6-pound-test line, a #4 to #2 round shot set 24 to 48 inches above the hook, an appropriate rod and reel for the light line, and a 4-inch worm. That’s it.

But let’s drill down deeper and discuss ways to maximize your catch with this rig. As this is a light-line technique, tackle choice is extremely important. First, the rod must be capable of setting the hook with line in the 6-pound range without fear of breaking the line. Rods from 61⁄2 to 71⁄2 feet, rated medium- to extra-fast action and with a minimum line rating of 4- to 6-pound test, generally fill the bill. Longer rods act as shock absorbers against sudden boatside dives, and help set the hook at long range.

Veteran split-shotters select spinning reels with smooth drags and larger-than-normal spool diameters. A smooth drag, when set properly, minimizes break-offs and hook pulls that can plague anglers with sticky drags. Large spool diameter helps minimize coiling for better line control and longer casts.

Historically, there was little choice in line except for color, as monofilaments ruled. Ardent split-shot anglers swore by the advantages of green lines to help camouflage their presentation. Now, braids and fluorocarbons greatly broaden the options, and selection depends on what you’re trying to accomplish.

To keep the lure gliding above bottom, a limp monofilament is still the number one choice. Some new braids in the 10- to 16-pound-test range work, with a section of monofilament tied to the braid using a double uni-knot. A leader reduces line visibility and lead shot grips mono better than braid.

For anglers targeting bottom-­oriented bass, fluorocarbon line is hard to beat. Not only does fluoro offer low visibility, it sinks, giving the angler more direct contact with the lure and greater sensitivity. Limper brands, like Spiderwire Ultracast 100% Fluorocarbon, behave better, particularly if spools are not filled completely.

Terminal Tackle

Originally developed to present small baitfish-colored worms to Castaic’s shad-centric bass, the hook had to be light wire to keep baits above bottom as much as possible. Aberdeen-style was about the only hook to fill the niche at the time. Though it worked in most cases, Aberdeens lacked the strength to hold a big bass, or the keeper barbs to secure softbaits at the hook eye.

Hook options have increased and several manufacturers now offer hooks ideal for split-shottin’. They’re built of thin-gauge wire, with keeper barbs to hold softbaits firmly at the eye, and are forged for strength.

Long-shank O’Shaughnessy-style hooks like Gamakatsu’s Light Wire Worm Hook, or those with keeper barbs, such as the ReBarb from Robo Worm, are ideal for worms and grubs 4 inches or longer. These hooks allow an angler to rig a bait weedless, while the hook shank acts as a keel to minimize line twist.

Kahle-style hooks such as Eagle Claw’s Lazer Sharp L144, Mustad’s Ultra Point 37753 NPNP, or Gama-katsu’s Split Shot Hook also work well for rigging leeches, minnows, and other small baits that lose action when hooked Texas-style on a long-shank hook. Run the point up through the head or nose of the bait, leaving the body free to move. Because the hook’s exposed, it’s best suited for areas with little or no brush.

Split-shot Details

Two types of split-shot exist—round and eared. To keep the rig as snag-free as possible, use round split-shot. Eared shot are handy, as they’re easily removed, but may hang between rocks or pick up algae.

Split-shot are available in many sizes, though the most useful weights are #4 and #2 (higher numbers are smaller), which weigh 1/8 and 1/4 ounce. In most situations, these two sizes maintain bottom contact and present the bait in a nearly weightless manner, a key to successful ­split-shottin’.

If wind or current make it difficult to maintain bottom contact, heavier shot come in handy. At the other extreme in shallow, calm water, I recommend #7 shot, weighing 1/16 ounce.

Most split-shotters set sinkers from 2 to 4 feet above their lure. But similar to Carolina-rigging and Lindy-­rigging for walleye, in tough conditions such as post-frontal weather or dropping water levels, you may have to increase the distance between shot and hook. Lengths up to 6 feet aren’t unheard of.

A longer leader allows the bait to move more naturally but also reduces the angler’s ability to feel bites. Concentrating on the rig for any indication of movement helps. The longer the leader, the more likely you are to miss bites or to gut-hook fish.

Split-Shot Tactics

Although it was developed for tough, highly pressured conditions, the split-shot rig excels in many situations. It works well in super-shallow water to catch visible bass, and down over 50 feet to catch fish feeding on suspended bait.

Defining a target is the first step. Use your eyes or electronics to decide where bass may be holding. Cast the rig and let it sink to the bottom and then begin a slow, methodical retrieve with the rod. It’s a slow presentation but when the bite is tough, split-­shottin’ is hard to beat.

Pay close attention to the rod tip and line during the retrieve: Bites can be nearly undetectable, since the light sinker doesn’t slide on the line as with a Carolina rig. Often, a bite is signaled merely by a bit of pressure or line movement to the side.

Starting in the mid-1970s, Trask also used split-shot rigs in conjunction with his electronics to catch ­suspended bass. In deep western ­reservoirs, threadfin shad often suspend over deep water and bass hold below them, waiting for a prime opportunity to feed. In this situation, sonar reveals the depth at which the baitfish and bass are holding. It’s generally best to vertically present baits between the bottom of the school of baitfish and the depth bass are holding.

Position the boat upwind of the spot, lower the rig to the proper depth (most good sonar units enable you to follow the rig down), and then drift the lure through the marks on the screen, using the trolling motor to control speed. If there isn’t enough wind to drift, use your trolling motor to move the boat slowly through the area.

Bait Selection

In the early days of split-­shottin’, lure selection consisted of 3- to 4-inch curlytail worms that mimic baitfish. Since then, anglers have expanded their offerings to include many of the countless softbaits on the market. There are several considerations when choosing lures, however.

If bass are feeding on baitfish in the area, select something that imitates the size and color of the forage. Floating or neutral-buoyancy baits glide off the bottom and realistically represent natural prey.

Where bass are feeding on crawdads, small imitations of these crustaceans are favored, along with small creature baits and lizards.

Larger plastics, like 6-inch or longer worms and lizards, also have their times. Rigged behind a split-shot, these standard lures entice bites from bass that are bombarded by masses throwing the same lures on Texas or Carolina rigs. Split-shottin’ is all about presenting lures in a natural manner with light weight.

As with many techniques of the past, the split-shot rig has demonstrated its versatility and effectiveness, only to be placed on the back shelf. But with bass across the U.S. becoming conditioned to techniques like the drop-shot and shakey-head rig, it’s time to break out the split-shot gear and show them something they haven’t seen or may have long forgotten. I’ll wager the bass in your area will respond the same way they did back when **** Trask first developed the split-shot technique.

Terry Battisti, Idaho Falls, Idaho, is an avid bass angler and freelance writer who has previously written articles for In-Fisherman and Bass Guide.